uncomfortable pause. now… do I mention the carrots?

Posted on Monday 5 May 2008

In the strangest of sequence of events possible (well now, not really that strange, is it?) I think I am going to re-emerge in this website. Believe me, I tried everything possible, up to and including asking it to go away. But it won’t! So, might as well use it =) I think the tone/focus may change a bit- I will only be working in the wine industry for another 3 months, 9 days and 17 hours (really, who’s counting?)… however, I will likely love wine just as much when I am 4700km away from the Niagara Wine Region (and 4700km closer to the Okanagan Valley).

I’m keeping my options open- how about that?

Hand in hand with great Canadian wine is fantastic Canadian art. Some friends and I recently attended the hotdocs.ca film festival, where we viewed the General Idea documentary “General Idea: Art, AIDS and the Fin de Siecle”. I have to admit, after a bit of cringing through AA Bronson’s lecture at U of T, it was very brave of Jamie to even agree to go!

The film was a complementary, if brief, overview of the work of General Idea. The challenge, I suppose, of chronicling such a media-savvy collective through film is how to utilize the medium in a way that doesn’t undermine the original intent of the group?

The same weekend, the same group of friends also visited “Cafe Taste” at 1330 Queen Street West, Toronto - Jeremy at Cafe Taste has created a fantastic wine list, and we enjoyed a lovely bottle of 2006 Malevoire Chardonnay Musque with an incredible cheese platter. The Chardonnay Musque was well received all around (even by those who ‘don’t really drink white wine’). It has a nice weight to it, just a touch of refreshing sweetness, and a noticeable lively mouth feel. Both Heather and Jamie mentioned that it Almost feels like its bubbly… Hopefully Malevoire still has some in stock!

Jenn @ 12:36 am
Filed under: wine and arts and friends
who’s got 30 000$ to spare?

Posted on Thursday 18 January 2007

icewine grapes

well, it looks like we’re okay for icewine after all! I took this photo this morning at one of the vineyards just off of concession 1 in Niagara on the Lake.

Perhaps these little grapes will one day grow up to be part of a thirty thousand dollar bottle of icewine… that story is incredible- i mean… thirty Thousand dollars! do you know how much ‘99 cab sauv you could buy for thirty thousand dollars?

A few people have asked me if I thought it could Possibly be worth it. I guess it completely depends on your personal priorities and preferences. I think the best Icewine I ever have had is a Peller 2002 Cab Franc. In all fairness, the only experience I have really had tasting back vintages of icewines has been through Peller, Hillebrand and Thirty Bench.

The 2002 Cab Franc aged into this fabulous flavour that was almost reminiscient of a nice, smooth port- only without the excessive heat because it was still only 12% alcohol. With most icewines, as they age the sugary, fruity sweetness steps back in the flavour profile and these amazing, mature flavours of nutty, vanilla, brown sugar come forward. The flavour of the icewine becomes increasingly complex- demanding time, love and attention. yummy.

the 2002 Cab Franc was selling for $95.00 last time I checked- Peller Estates most expensive wine to date.

Jenn @ 1:57 pm
Filed under: wine and work and icewine
the dinner @ deluca’s…

Posted on Friday 10 November 2006

last saturday, 9pm:

restaurant tony deluca offers an eight course chefs tasting menu nightly…  this experience was a first for me; i was blown away when paul (our fantastic server) offered a vegetarian tasting menu! how could i resist??

answer: i didn’t!  the night went something like this…

amuse bouche     stratus white

we started with the current vintage stratus white.  i saw it on the menu, and just Had to.  that wine has the most haunting, golden, smooth perfection to it.  I believe it retails for about $35 a bottle at the vineyard- i’ve bought it twice- i think it’s Kind of a Big Deal :-) deluca’s and stratus have gone all out with this wine, and are serving it in specially formatted ravenscroft stemware (subtly emblazoned with the winery logo). 

miniature salade appetizer     henry of pelham cuvee catherine

i’m not going to lie: pinkish hued sparkling wines always catch me a little off-guard.  this wine was a delicate rusty-rose colour…  it has an enticing aroma of blackberry and a slight yeastiness.  the gentle flavours of soft apple and strawberry play quite nicely with the light effervescence…

butternut squash soup     jackson-triggs delaine vineyard riesling (2004)

first of all- this soup is Amazing.  fantastic, wonderfully whipped- i loved it.  the jt riesling was the first wine of the evening that i finished, and it paired wonderfully with the soup.  the riesling is smooth, luscious, and already showing a nice petrol in the bouquet.  i’ll be curious to revisit this wine in a year or two to see how that flavour is maturing…

mushroom beggars purse     cave springs pinot noir (2004)

this course was my favorite of the evening: everything about it Worked.  the herbacious crepe filled with the most flavourful mushroom pate- it was gorgeous, and paired nicely with the pinot.

truffled eggs     kacaba chardonnay (2000)

what to serve with scrambled eggs??  apparently a full-bodied chard…  upon first sniff, my sensitive-nosed companion remarked that he picked up ‘toluene with a hint of acetone’.  as it aerated, the wine developed into more of a floral / apple.  i felt that it perhaps needed a little more time than the pace of the meal (an eight course meal beginning at 9pm!!) allowed…

goats cheese tart     flat rock riesling (2004)

as always (so far!) the flat rock riesling receives two enthusuastic thumbs up.  every vintage of this young winery’s riesling has shown to be stellar- perfectly balanced, crisp, refreshing citrus- airy…  feels like its dancing on the sides of your tongue…

grilled eggplant     stratus red (cv)

the stratus red is not “My Style” of wine- and i have yet to understand why.  instinctively, the word i want to use is muddled, but i’m not even sure that i know what i mean by that…  jl groulx uses his ‘assemblage’ technique in both the stratus white and the red. with the white, i would hands-down say it is one of my top 3 recommendations of niagara whites.  with the red, i just don’t Love it- and, being that it retails for around 60$: in order to invest, i’d need to love it.

assiette of chocolate     jackson-triggs reserve vidal icewine (2004)

the ‘blondie’, the house made chocolate ice-cream, the perfect end to an absolutely fantastic meal. the soft caramel undertones of the vidal married quite nicely with the flavours of the brownie.

bottom line: it was fantastic- a wonderful dining experience!!

8 course tasting menu…  115$ / guest (with wine accompaniments)

Jenn @ 1:08 am
Filed under: wine
to be franc…

Posted on Tuesday 19 September 2006

colio estates 2002 cabernet franc reserve 

It was as a result of a trade that I ended up with this bottle in my possession.  Several of the ‘Wineries of Ontario’ wineries were pouring at Jackson Triggs over the summer for a Finance Ministers gathering… 

I was pouring Peller’s 2003 Chardonnay Sur Lie, and Peller’s 2003 Private Reserve Chardonnay, my station was between Chateau des Charmes (meritage- it had a name to do with horses…  grr- can’t remember!!) and Colio.

Last night, while pouring through hours of Canadian Studies literature, I decided a glass of something red was in order, and searched for something appropriate-

After opening the bottle and being drawn in by the wines smooth, chocolatey nose, I was surprised by its light body, low tannin, and quick finish. Conveniently, I wasn’t planning on snacking, and really didn’t need anything too full bodied.  I found that the wine was best enjoyed directly from the bottle, and didn’t really benifit from aeriation…  admittedly, the traditional temperature that I served the wine at may have been a little too warm for this interestingly crisp and tangy style of cabernet. 

From my research, i have come to understand that the CEV Merlot is a flagship varietal for Colio, and I will be looking forward to an opportunity to sample it sometime soon-

Meanwhile, Colio is celebrating its 25th anniversary! Not a small achievement in this tasty business…  Congratulations!

Jenn @ 1:26 pm
Filed under: wine and cabernet franc
merlot…

Posted on Saturday 5 August 2006

daniel lenko     2003 Old Vines Merlot    

The story of my visit to daniels winery is infamous, and I look forward to sharing it very soon…  let me just say, i’ve never had such a crush on a guy in a nascar hat before :-)

I am sitting here, on my back porch, listening to the rain, enjoying this absolutely stellar merlot.  It is everything a merlot should be: smooth, rich, velvet and easy to drink…  beautiful earth, spice and blackcurrent on the nose, a suprising strawberry, and cherry palate.  The fruit-forwardness, combined with perfectly smooth (but definetly present) tannins, the refreshing, yet lingering finish…  i’m totally in love with this bottle.

I don’t have a price to list because this was purchased as part of a ‘premium tasters pack’  (6 bottles, including the viogner, unoaked chardonnay, and a few other treasures) that ran about $200.00…

Believe me, spend 10 minutes with daniel and his wines- all of a sudden that seems like a small price to pay ;)

Jenn @ 6:57 am
Filed under: wine and merlot
pinot noirs of the world… stories of international heartbreak.

Posted on Wednesday 2 August 2006

     The idea of attending a blind tasting of eight world class pinot noirs is eyebrow arching to say the very least. Tom Digweed, host of the evening (and admittedly ‘not a pinot fan’) arranged the evening to be accessible and enjoyable for the critical palate.

     Toms selection included a variety of bottles, ranging in price from $15.95 - $50.00, originating from six diverse viticulture regions.

     The experience was suprising, entertaining, and left one with an optimisitic appreciation of the ‘heartbreak grape’.

Thirty Bench      2002 Pinot Noir    Beamsville Bench, Ontario     $50.00

     The rich, inky colour of this wine, combined with its nose of euculyptis and black fruit led me to speculate that its origins were australian.  it’s full bodied mouth feel would only  emphasize the possibility of this being pinpointed as a warm climate offering.

     Several Beamsville Bench wineries have chosen to focus on the Pinot Noir…  in some cases creating memorable, almost magical wines.  In this particular case, the Thirty Bench offering was not my favorite wine (and at $50.00 per bottle, is slightly beyond my ‘unless-i-absolutely-have-to-have-it’ budget).  The overwhelming consensus at our tasting table was that it would definetly benifit from another two, perhaps three years in the cellar.

Domaine Vacheron     2004 Sancerre     Loire Valley, France     $31.95

     In my follow up research, the only information I could find for the Domaine Vacheron discussed the Sancerre Blanc, which is heralded to be a superior product of the Loire…  unfortunetly, the experience with the Sancerre Rouge did not leave a favourable impression.

     Although the initial nose showed subtle fruit and slight earthiness, the palate was extremely hot, leading many in the group to question the excessive alcohol percieved to be present.  The discovery that the Sancerre was a mere 12.5% alcohol generated suspision of the overall balance of the wine. 

Silver Stone     2001 Pinot Noir     Monterey California     $29.95

     Being that I have been a vegetarian for 15+ years, I provoked a few curious glances with my initial assesment of this sample… “It smells like smoky bacon chips!!”.

     This wine has a beautiful rust colour, smooth mouth feel, and absolutely zero tannin. The winemakers decision to leave the wine unfiltered, with no additional racking was a brave one, providing a pinot with a very unique complexity. The wine provided a quick finish with little aftertaste, and would be beautiful when served slightly chilled.

Peller Estates     2005 Pinot Noir     Niagara Region, Ontario     $25.95

     Undoubtedly my favorite of the evening (even at a blind-tasting…  I have my rough notes, I promise!!).  Several members of the table commented on the similarity of the nose of this Pinot to the bouquet of the Peller Estates 2002 Cabernet Franc Icewine: Intense Strawberry!

     The nose is rounded off with a slight bubblegum, reminiscient of the traditional beaujolais style.  The palate is well balanced…  earthiness and fruit with a crisp finish of subtle raisin.  I also see this wine slightly chilled, and eagerly suspect that this is offering is indicitave of the superior 2005 reds yet to be seen from Niagara.

Erath     2004 Pinot Noir     Oregon, USA     $22.95

     In my opinion, the runner-up of the evening.  The Erath Pinot provided a rich strawberry colour in the glass, a beautiful, subtly elegant nose of raisin and toasted oak, and finished with lots of fruit and nicely balanced tannins.

     At $22.95, this is excellent value for a superior Pinot Noir, and I will be heading to Vintages ASAP to pick up a few bottles and experience its development over the next two to three years.

Louis Jadot     2004 Pinot Noir Couvent Des Jacobins     Burgundy, France     $19.95

     The pleasant pinkish hue of this Pinot suggested its tradtionally cool climate origins.  The juiciness of the strawberry/rasperry aroma may be accused of being a little bit of a tongue-tease :-) as the palate is a little less than what may be desired.  Nice fruitiness, Nice acidity, and a nice example of a french Pinot for under $20.

Sileni     2005 Pinot Noir     Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand     $17.95

     Another favorite of the evening:  well balanced, fruit forward with nice acidity and a crisp finish.  Soft, sublte tannins provided a pleasant mouth feel.

     At $17.95, this Pinot is a fantastic find- perhaps even a cellar candidate for another three to four years!  Totally worth a try…

Konigschaffhausen     2003 Pinot Noir     Baden, Germany     $15.95

     This Pinot offers an exciting, sunset-rustiness in the glass.  The aroma of soft, subtle fruit and oak paired with coffee and leather is enticing and exotic, reminding one of evenings around a campfire. 

     The palate delivers lingering fruit paired with earthiness and vanilla.  The tannin is non-existent, possibly suggesting that the wine should ideally be consumed sooner rather than later.

Go Ahead And Try…

Tawse Winery     2003 Pinot Noir     Beamsville Bench, Ontario     $28.00

     A perfect example of a terroire-focused winery venturing to produce maximum quality wine from minimal grape variety.  Presently, Tawse is working with the Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir- all of which have received critical acclaim. 

     On a regional tasting excursion, the Tawse Pinot was the only offering of this temperamental varietal which inspired me to reach for my debit card.  The perfect balance of fruit, earth, acidity, and tannin was absolutely superior to anything else that was experimented with that day.  The lingering finish begged for another taste. 

     Pinot Noir has been referenced by some as a haunting obsession- the Tawse Winery Pinot is presently the only one I believe to be seductive enough to garner such an affair ;)

 

 

 

 

Jenn @ 5:39 pm
Filed under: wine and pinot noir